Aand after dozens of hours, here’s the completed model! Never again! (maybe)
This photo is actually a slightly different perspective from the one in my deviantart post. The neck here happened to line up with the tail to make a sort of a loop. I liked it so I posted it here.
More details about the model can be found on my deviantart post
Part 2 of the Ryujin 3.5 progress photos.
I’ve connected the two halves together, inserted wires for structure, and closed up the model. Posing is completed by the last photo and the model just has some details left to clean up.
So… I’ve been working on a Ryujin 3.5 (a detailed dragon designed by Kamiya Satoshi) throughout this year. Since I’ve finished the model, I’m posting some progress photos for the separate bottom and top halves of the folding process. Shown is grid creasing, pre-creasing, collapsing, and scale shaping for both. The time difference between the first and last progress photo is about a couple months
Toothless is friggin adorable so I tried my hand at folding him. Folded from 18” square of black unryu.
More details can be found on my Deviantart post.
So… as of last week, I’ve been traveling! In fact, I’m still traveling so I’ve stuck this up on tumblr’s scheduled post function.
This is a modest entry for a little design challenge between friends for which the topic is “octopus”. Though origami octopi aren’t new, I guess I ended up doing a few of the things you usually don’t see in an octopus model.
- I pulled the legs from the bottom half of the paper(with some flaps even nested inside one another) instead of all from the edges of the paper.
- I dedicated flaps for the eyes, which allowed for BIG octopus eyes (probably went a bit too big here)
- Instead of squashing a center flap for a bulbous head, the head is a wide flap that locks together to make a cylinder, with crimps to round out the shape.
All in all, it probably makes for a fairly inefficient octopus! Crease pattern included. Some designations:
Top corners: eye flaps
Main body: Top center (I made this flap wider through spreading these pleats)
legs: 4 edge flaps from the sides, 2 edge flaps from the bottom, and 2 center flaps about a 3rd of the way from the bottom.
Hello. I don't know your name and that is my first question-What is your name?(sorry XD). I am a 17-year-old boy from Spain and I started folding at the age of 10, but i've never been able to do any origami from CP´s. So my question is if you can teach me to do some of your works (like the cute Jake the Dog), or teach everyone in Youtube ? Sorry if I ask you something that u don't want to do but i will be the happiest person in the world just with your answer. I'm Alvaro (sorry for mistakes)
It is indeed a bit tricky to get started in crease patterns, and for starters, there are a lot of resources online. You can check out the crease pattern section of this reddit FAQ for some reading material. Personally, I learned the most while drawing crease patterns for the models I designed. It kind of arose through the necessity to save my ideas without spending to much time diagramming the whole thing. As with most skills, start easy (try some easy crease patterns found online) and work your way up. Luckily the Jake the Dog crease pattern is fairly simple and shouldn’t take too much practice before you are ready to tackle it.
How I usually tackle a crease pattern I’ve never seen before is try to identify reference points. Wherever a bunch of creases seem to converge, see if that point falls on a 1/2, 1/3, 1/4, etc reference point. If a bunch of creases diverge from a point, check if they are angle bisectors. If a bunch of creases are parallel to each other or intersect at 90 degrees, it probably falls on a regular grid. Once you have these reference points, the rest of the creases usually are deducible from there.
Once you have the creases folded, you are going to need to collapse the model. This just means the creases typically come together all at once into a base that has flaps in the right orientations for the model you want to fold. Sometimes the base looks nothing like the final model, and you will need to imagine how the base layout would be laid out with respect to what you want to fold. If the base collapses strangely or runs into itself, try turning the crease pattern inside out or reversing all the creases. A lot of it is trial and error. Once you have this base, it’s up to you to detail it to your liking. You’ll learn that working with crease patterns involves a lot of personal interpretations after the collapse steps.
Hope that overview helps. I don’t have the setup/experience/time to make high quality videos unfortunately. Good luck learning crease patterns and remember that it might take a while to get the hang of it, so keep at it!
I tried my hand at Gen Hagiwara’s Labrador retriever crease pattern. If you want to try your hand at it, the crease pattern may be found here.
Folded from 9” square of gold tissue foil. Instead of shaping a Labrador Retriever however, I figured why not try a different dog breed and tried to recreate the Shiba Inu.
Some more Monster Hunter origami! Here are a couple quadrapedal wyverns, both folded from the same base. Crease pattern included.
Nargacuga: Folded from a 15” square of black unryu. I’m very happy with how it came out.
Tigrex: Folded from 12” square of yellow Tant. It was almost too thick for the job, but it turned out decently nonetheless.
I folded some brute wyverns from the Monster Hunter series! Presenting the Brachydios and Baroth. Both from the same crease pattern and from single sheets of 12” squares.
Designed and Folded by me.
Not from a single sheet of paper.
At first, I would hope to think (given how many hours of designing and refolding I put into this), that most people would regard this as a cool model. But upon closer inspection, I think most origami designers would think, “wow, that must’ve been really boring to fold and design”. And it’s true—most of the designing and folding process of this model isn’t particularly unique or complicated. I personally believe that one of the key ingredients to a “great” origami design is the fun and clever folding process itself, and unfortunately, this model in my opinion does not have those elements.
The most complicated part of designing were the proportions. Having played violin for god-knows-how-long, I’m sensitive to the slight imperfections in the ratios between neck and the full fingerboard, the size of the scroll box to the scroll, etc. Even now, I can’t help but think about the flaws in this model. But when designing the works that have survived thousands or millions of years, for example, the “Beauchene Skull” and “Brain”, I can only help but to appreciate simply the complexity of design in nature. Like no skull, brain, or violin is the same as another, perhaps, it’s just perfect in its own right. And when you view the world with what art or design teaches you, the world just seems so much more beautiful.
You don’t see too many multi-piece, non-kusudama pieces in origami. Check out those details.